NY Fashion Faces, Collage by Alex Chevalkov. (Courtesy: Alex Chevalkov).

New York Fashion Week – 6 days in early September that kick off the global fashion show season. After New York, designers will present their ideas in the traditional fashion capitals – London, Tokyo, Milan, and Paris. Fresh and new local fashion weeks, emerging in more and more cities across all continents will closely follow.

In September, just before the autumn-winter blues, New York indulges in dreams of the summer of 2025. On the runways are collections that will become available in branded boutiques almost a year later, while in fast-fashion stores – in just a couple of months, albeit their adapted, lower-cost and quality versions, with different labels. This trend, which the professional fashion world has always tried to fight, only grows stronger with each season. It’s easy to confuse the seasons and even easier to mix up new brands, especially since the “new” trends on New York’s runways continue to exploit street style, a bit of grunge, and melancholic minimalism with a slight ethnic touch.

Fashion critics have been writing about New York as the center of globalization on the fashion scene. However, with each season, the list of star participants, i.e., leading European super-brands—grows more modest. Not so long ago, New York Fashion Week was the party everyone attended – from fashion giants to innovators. Now, however, major European brands prefer to stay in Paris and Milan, occasionally visiting China. At the same time, New York is left with a crowd of newcomers who disappear without a trace after one or two seasons. American super-brands also lead independent lives. Ralph Lauren, for instance, chose not to promote his colleagues in the official Fashion Week calendar this season. His luxurious show on Long Island, which even Jill Biden attended, was not listed in the official show schedule. For this titan of American fashion, there’s no need to surprise or intrigue guests. For many years, the brand has successfully sold the Hamptons lifestyle, and its collections only remind people of comfort, quality, and Ralph Lauren’s restrained elegance. However, some innovation is always useful: handbags with bamboo handles will surely become a ‘must-have’ for the summer of 2025. Meanwhile, Ralph is 84 years old.

Other stars of American fashion, such as Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Tory Burch, and Proenza Schouler, also unveiled their new collections. There were no revolutions here, just evolution, slow and steady. It’s best not to disrupt stable sales but only refresh them slightly.

NY Fashion Faces. Collage by Alex Chevalkov. ( Courtesy: Alex Chevalkov).

Perhaps the central event of the week was the runway show by the only European star guest – the House of ALAÏA. A devotee of constructivism and minimalist elegance, ALAÏA calls its collection Winter_Spring 2025, even though Fashion Week presents the Spring_Summer 2025 season. Interestingly, this innovation is not reflected in the models – 48 ensembles in soft pink, white, mint, and nude summer tones, with a lot of exposed skin. The style is more sporty and casual, which is quite uncharacteristic for the brand. It is clear that the brand is signaling its desire to strengthen its presence in New York. The brand’s press release notes that the fashion show at the Guggenheim Museum is the first to be held in this iconic space. Without a doubt, this choice is organic for ALAÏA, but many remember the shows of numerous super-brands that have also taken place at this location.

However, the main vibe of Fashion Week is shaped by younger and lesser-known brands, of which there are more than 50 in the calendar. Many appeared on the runways for the first time, and it’s uncertain whether we will see them in future seasons.

Will New Yorkers want to dress in a year as most of these brands propose? It’s a difficult question to answer, as it’s hard to find something genuinely new and fashion-related in these collections. Designers are preoccupied with everything else: reflecting on the multifaceted cultural landscape, dismantling or constructing gender stereotypes, ecology and consumption issues, inclusivity, and the cultural identity of minorities. The only thing lacking in creative energy is the design itself: styles and silhouettes, color and textures, new aesthetics, and innovations in materials and form. Many new brands behave as though fashion didn’t exist before them: most “fresh” ideas have already been embraced by the neighboring skate park or their previous seasons. There’s certainly a breath of the times in this lightness of designer thinking, but let’s hope this pause of “safe fashion” doesn’t last too long.

Fashion critics in specialized publications highlight the following significant trends for the Spring-Summer 2025 season: fringe of any type and length, a yellow hue reminiscent of scrambled eggs, and “no pants” looks, where, for example, a long shirt or short tunic is worn under a blazer with leggings, but without a skirt, shorts, or trousers. Let’s listen to these recommendations, and while we wait for fashion to once again become a celebration, we hope it continues to improve life for everyone who can afford to indulge in it.